Experience 17: Surreal Shire
On the 17th day of our journey we traveled to our last hostel before Reykjavik, located in Sudurland. Like most departures this one brought anticipation of the unknown; however, it also represented the near end to our journey. Little did my mind (and calves) know that our last two days would be packed with long hikes and unforgettable adventure. While traveling to Sudurland we made road side field stops. Among these, we stopped at Black Sand Beach. The beach encompasses its title but it also contains impressive columnar jointing that has created enormous hollows within the rock. Growing up on the white Gulf was a stark contrast to this dark coast, but I greatly admired the beauty and ferocity it contained. After posing along the columns, we again loaded up for the hostel and afternoon hike. Our new homestead was located alongside one of Iceland's most impressive waterfalls (although I think that all are enormously impressive). After a long day of bus travel, we were anxious to begin a lengthy hike alongside the waterfall and into the mountains. Iceland's continual daylight is both a blessing and a curse for our group of hikers, as prolonged sun allows for increased periods of discovery but decreased sense of time. We followed the river as it twisted its way throughout the valley. With our heightened elevation compared to the water, we gazed at multiple waterfalls and mountains concealed by a foggy distance. There was a very strong Middle Earth presence in this part of the country. Rocks cushioned by layers of moss made it feels as though we were hiking through the Shire instead of Iceland. Eventually, rumbling stomachs drove us back to civilization and after a fantastic dinner (more fish) we settled in for our most adventurous hike the following day.
The Shire or Iceland?!
Day 18 May 29th, 2016
Experience 18: Note to self: use cooling eruptions to heat fries
On the 18th day of our Nordic journey we arose with an early sun for a full day on the Westman Islands. Our destination was the most populated town of Heimaey, which was the site of a 1973 eruption. After a quick stop at another scenic waterfall, we boarded a ferry and took course for Heimaey. Two hikes encompassed our time on the island. The first hike involved scaling up the island's largest sea cliff. To accomplish this feat we had to climb two ladders and use the assistance of a rope over steep surfaces. Ropes and ladders do not meet my fancy and I was greatly out of my comfort zone. However, once at the top amongst the mountain sheep, we had a complete view of the small town and surrounding ocean. It was extremely beautiful and justified our previous exertions. After a quick break involving dipped cones, we set out for a hike on the opposite end of the island. On this hike we climbed the vividly colored lava flow of the 1973 eruption. This eruption was sparked by a fissure opening up along one end of the island. The pouring magma created a new mountain, deemed Eldfell or Mountain of Fire. The eruption had threatened to consume the town and close off its harbor (main source of income); however, townspeople banded together and continuously sprayed seawater on the flow. This aided in the lava's solidification and diversion from the harbor. The top of Eldfell contains an eerie atmosphere. Hot air still seeps between the cooling rock. (We might have stuck a bag of fries in one of the warm crevices). From this vantage point, we could view how the pouring magma had re-shaped the landscape and added 20% landmass to the island. We toured a museum containing houses excavated from layers of thick ash and tephra and ended the day with another quality meal. The ferry took us back to the mainland and thus ended our last day of exploration!!
The dipped cone that revived my soul
The island of Iceland from the ferry
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